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Ordering & shipping

Do you ship to my country?

Yes, we do.
We use the DHL express service exclusively! it’s A-Class world-wide service.
You may be required to provide some additional customs information for few countries – such as personal or business tax ID. Brazil and South Corea for example.
Shipping to Russia is only possible if the addressee is a business entity. If you are individual person ordering from Russia, contact us before!

Can you use different carrier/shipping service?

No, we use the DHL Express exclusively. We have tried different services and believe us, we want life to be simple for you, as well as for us.
We think of fast and hassle-free delivery as an integral part of the Xlifter experience.   

How do I order and pay?

Simply place your order via e-shop on our website. The system will collect all necessary info required for shipment making it the best method.
A multitude of payment options is offered as the last step when ordering. The best is to use the standard payment card – we use the Braintree gateway (amongst the world’s top 5, part of Paypal). Of course, you can use Paypal. Wire transfer is available upon request.

How about the price? With or without VAT?

The 495€ price is a net price excluding 21% Czech Value Added Tax. Price including the VAT is 599€.
Price in USD and GBP is calculated according to the actual exchange rate to EUR.

Czech VAT (21%) will not be charged on deliveries being shipped outside of the EU.
However, shipments to countries outside of the EU may be subject to import duties (fees, tariffs, taxes) as determined by the country of destination. We cannot calculate foreign import fees or taxes during the payment process and we cannot provide an estimation of any potential charges which may incur – fees vary from country to country. There is no difference as if you are order goods from any EU member state, so you’ll be probably familiar with your local fees.
If you are not sure, you can always contact your local customs office for more info regarding your country’s importation policies. Xlifter is declared as “Xlifter – car electronic component – signal processor”.

If the XLifter is shipped into another member state, the price depends on if you are a business that has a valid VAT EU tax id. The VAT ID can be entered during the checkout. If it’s valid, VAT is exempted according to the reverse charge direction 2006/112/ES and must be paid by you in your country.

In all other cases, XLifter must be sold with the Czech VAT.

Are there any actual COVID-19 related restrictions?

The DHL express guys perform an excellent job even these days. However, the situation may change rapidly, please check out the DHL actual shipping updates here.

How fast is the delivery?

Expect 2-3 business days for the EU delivery and 5-6 days for most of the world, including the USA or Australia.
Please allow about 10 days to most remote areas. Allow few more days for custom processing in some countries – Mexico, Israel, Brasil, South Korea for example.

What happens with your product if there is a problem with your product?

XLifter offers a 30 days guarantee or full refund if not satisfied. We take any issues very personally and respond quickly to resolve any difficulties. On occasion, our customers stumble during installation and we are happy to guide them through any difficulties. In the rarest of circumstances, we have had to replace a faulty unit. We do so by covering DHL shipping and within 2 – 7 business days worldwide you can welcome your new XLifter toy.


General questions

What cars will the XLifter fit into?

XLifter is a Land Rover thing. And regrettably – no other brands are planned.  Also, it’s an air suspension device. All of this means, that you can fit XLifter into: 

  • Land Rover® Discovery 3 (L319). Marketed as LR3 in the US. All model years (2004-2009).
  • Land Rover® Discovery 4 (L319). Marketed as LR4 in the US. All model years (2009-2017).
  • Range Rover® Sport (L320)  – All model years (2005-2013).
  • Range Rover® (L322) – all model years after the second update (2007-2012) – The ignition switch up to in dashboard, next to the steering wheel, Terrain Response system “rotating knob” at the center panel, buttons for up/down height change.
What does the “EAS” abbreviation mean?

EAS is Electronic Air Suspension. Usually, it refers to the whole vehicle air-spring equipped suspension.
However, it may also refer to the Land Rover EAS ECU (Electronic Control Unit) – LR computer controlling whole system – air compressor, valves, the pressure of air, wheel heights, etc.
Following these conventions, we named our XLifter silver unit simply XLifter EAS unit. It’s the one that is mounted on top of the original LR EAS ECU unit.

Does the XLifter replaces the original system? Will the height setting buttons at the center console be still functional?

The Xlifter does not replace the original LR EAS control unit. It “cooperates” with it. It extends its functionality. Both systems are “chained together”.
It’s given by the principle of the Xlifter operations – XLifter taps directly into the height sensors signals, adjusting them in a clever way. Essentially when you raise the car by the XLifter – let’s say 50mm – Xlifter “tells” to the original EAS unit that the car sits 50mm lower. As if you load the car with a ton of cargo. And the original EAS unit reacts by raising the car to compensate.
As the original system remains fully functional, the height setting buttons at the center console still work, of course. Height selected on the Xlifter is always added/subtracted to the height selected on the center console (“Access”, “Standard”, “Off-Road”).

Does the XLifter work together with aftermarket suspension lift rods (Johnson’s rods etc.)?

Yes, it works together, but it’s not recommended.
Imagine the XLifter as an electronic equivalent of rods, only with (electronically) variable length. There is no point to add one rod on top of the other (kind of chaining them).
Technically it would work. However, the XLifter is calibrated when the vehicle is in “normal” height and it knows what is the maximal wheel travel both in the up/down direction.
When any wheel approaches the end of its travel, XLifter applies numerous strategies to prevent height sensor “out of range” overshoot errors. With the Rods, as the whole height is shifted up (but the XLifter internal constants are not),  the “up” side would throw suspension errors in case of high lifts or extreme wheel articulations.
This is the reason why we don’t recommend combining both systems. As the XLifter is capable of fully replacing rods, we recommend using the XLifter or the fixed rods. Do not use both longer rods and XLifter at the same time.

What is the maximum tire size I can fit with the XLifter installed?

Honestly, we do not feel qualified to answer this question. It depends on quite a few factors and surprisingly not that much on the XLifter.

I’d say there are 3 areas to consider:
The first is to consider if your priority is being able to drive the vehicle in case of air suspension failure. It’s true that XLifter, longer lift rods, and all similar tools make a car sit higher – but no single one – except suspension spacers – can help if there’s no air in the springs (i.e., compressor failure or air pipes leak, etc.). In this case, the max driveable size is about 31.6” For example, I run the Maxx 265/70/R17 on my Discovery 3. Any bigger and tire will rub the wheel arch when fully deflated.

The second is the legal factor. What is the max size, which you can officially write into the vehicle documents? We’ve done some research here in the Czech Republic, and for Discovery 3, It is 32”. This may differ from country to country, but we are required to have written the actually used tires in vehicle papers.

The third is simple physics – what you can fit on, without rubbing. Yes, you can have the car raised permanently (XLifter has the “default height” feature for this). Yes, you can trim some plastic, you can install spacers… it’s all up to you. There are folks sporting 33” without problems. But I guess that’s pretty it – I’ve never seen 34” on Discoveries. It may differ for Range Rovers.
Don’t forget that bigger tires also introduce additional load on CV joints, shaft, differentials – drive train as a whole.

As for myself, the conclusion is simple: 32”. For you? I don’t know. You have to do your homework yourself.

I have the Rhino kit (or any other spacer lift kit with longer rods and limiting straps) installed. Can I use the Xlifter?

It’s possible to use the Xlifter and Rhino kit together, however it has its limitations.
The vehicle is physically raised by the spacers, but since the kit comes with longer height sensor rods, the height is still seen as normal. Because car suspension is raised, there is physically shortened wheel travel in the “up” direction (car body up, wheel pushed down). The travel in the “down” direction is longer and has to be physically limited to prevent things from breaking down – hence the limiting straps.  So far so good.
Now, the XLifter knows what are the maximum wheel travel distances from normal height – both in up/down directions. The “down” will be ok, wheels never go out of range, as they are limited by the straps. But in the “up” direction, Xlifter overshoot prevention algorithms will kick in too late. Exactly as late as the spacer/rods height is. It’s a very similar situation as the XLifter combined with rods. And when there’s not overshoot prevention, EAS errors may occur. Using the XLifter together with the Rhino kit will make the system prone to such errors. +75mm lift with XLifter will not work (already lifted by rhino), extreme drops will also hit their limits at -35mm.
In a nutshell, you lose XLIfter’s min/max extremities because these are already provided by the Rhino kit. This also applies to leveling due to shortened max wheel travels by the lift kit. Despite that – all is okay. There are few people using the XLifter and spacers without any problems. 

Won’t the vehicle compressor overheat with the Xlifter installed?

The car compressor is designed for short quick bursts operations, not for continuous use. Higher compressor temperature is only an issue if you don’t play nicely with it, does not matter if with or without the XLifter.
When you raise/lower the car extensively, the demand for air refills increases. It does not matter if such a demand is created by using the XLifter features or vehicle original system. The vehicle systems inhibit compressor operations if a temperature of about 120 degrees of Celsius is reached. Cooling takes 5-10 minutes. Usually, 2-3 full down/up cycles are enough to push the compressor to its limit.
This is the reason why we implemented the compressor temperature monitoring into the XLifter, so you know the compressor temperature. Be gentle when playing with it. When the temperature gets to a high or critical range, let it cool down for a moment. Be nice to your car.  

Wouldn’t permanently installed XLifter discharge a car battery?

Do not worry, you can leave the XLifter in the vehicle for years without affecting the battery.
The controller is turned off with the ignition and the EAS unit is put to sleep with another vehicle systems. This should be “given” with all modern products, but as we found, it quite isn’t. We just took the extra mile of effort with proper hardware design.
Quiescent current is about 0.0005 Amps – a negligible draw, less than the self-discharge current of the vehicle battery.

Must be the engine running when I want to change the height or self-level the vehicle?

Yes, the vehicle compressor will not run without the engine running. The car wouldn’t raise in such conditions, it only lowers. So you can only lower the vehicle without the engine running, but not raise or self-level.

I want to have installed 33” wheels. Is this possible? How do I properly calibrate XLifter?

You always have to calibrate at normal height. If you calibrate in an off-road height, Xlifter will read the wrong limits. It will not drop the car as low as possible. When lifting, it will overshoot safety limits and suspension will throw an error.
Important note: XLifter assumes that original suspension height calibration is done according to LR procedure. If you, or your workshop, have intentionally calibrated (by LR procedure) height differently (i.e 1 inch higher), the EAS yellow “sensor out of range” suspension errors may appear during extreme wheel articulations or extreme leveling.

Also – we’d personally not suggest putting the 33” on Disco as the car will need to be towed in case of fully deflated air springs (air system leak), which is a better-to-avoid scenario when in remote areas.

I’ll will use XLifter occasionally only. Most of the time I want to have the control module disconnected. Is this possible?

It is perfectly possible.
However, there is an important note. When the Xlifter controller is disconnected for more than 5 minutes, as a safety measure, the EAS unit resets to “default lift” height.
The default lift is set to the Disengaged (+0 mm) program during manufacturing, but you can set it to anywhere from -15mm to +55mm in the service Xlifter menu (since the 1.05 firmware, older versions reset always to +0 mm)
Safety first. We believe that it’s much better to have the control module installed permanently and use the Keylock feature

What happens if the control module malfunctions or is disconnected from the 12V socket for a longer period? (or was stolen, broken…)

The XLifter EAS unit continuously checks for the availability of the control module. In case the ignition is on and wireless communication is failing for longer than 5 minutes, the “default lift” value is set (or the Disengaged (+0 mm) program in firmware older than 1.05).
This behavior addresses a situation where the control module is damaged while the vehicle is set to a driving-unsuitable mode (for example, it is leveled for sleeping). It is a safety measure.

My car has EAS suspension issues (Without the XLifter installed). Will the XLifter help to fix them?

No, XLifter will not fix any existing problems with the air suspension system.
On the contrary, the vehicle EAS system must be well-working and properly calibrated before installing the Xlifter. Xlifter extends the in-vehicle EAS system functionality – sometimes pushing it to its limits. It doe not replace it. Xlifter needs the original system.
Please check the “Does the XLifter replaces the original LR EAS ECU” FAQ question. If the vehicle has any suspension-related problem(s), these should be addressed before installing the Xlifter.

Why / how can XLifter help with ABS sensor malfunction?

As was covered in other FAQ questions, the XLifter works “in cooperation” with the LR EAS system. When things “go wrong”, the vehicle systems employes numerous strategies to prevent even worse things to happen.
If the ABS sensor signal is lost, the car disables traction control and terrain response modes – it lost the means to sense wheel slip, right? Ok. No problem yet. The trouble is that the LR EAS unit also deflates all air springs to (extremely low) “default height” – somewhere between bump stops and access height. The very same happens if there is a can-bus communication failure.
Now, we can imagine the safety reasoning behind this, intend was probably to force us to go to the nearest garage? However, when this happens in the middle of an off-road trip or expedition, especially in remote places, it’s a huge disaster. You could be not able to drive back via rough terrain at all.
Fortunately, this can be salvaged by the XLIfter. The LR system keeps the car at a very low height, but still by using height sensor signals. Xlifter can change these and raise the car despite error conditions.
Please it’s important to clarify that XLifter will not fix or solve the malfunctioning sensor. It just raises the car so you can drive somewhere to civilization to get it fixed.

Can I carry out the Land Rover suspension height calibration procedure while having the Xlifter installed?

Yes, you can, no problem.
Having the Xlifter installed does not prevent nor interfere with the LR calibration procedure.
However – and this is a must – Xlifter MUST be set to +0 mm disengaged / +0 mm free mode!

Can I use the mobile app without the XLifter controller? Can I get rid of / disconnect the controller and use only the app?

No, you can’t. You can’t rule the XLifter controller out of the game.
The app connects to the Xlifter controller and the controller subsequently talks to the Xlifter EAS unit.

Xlifter is designed that way and we have few reasons to stick to it.
First, the controller acts as a firewall gateway, filtering out any potentially malicious data messing with the car system. Remember, the Xlifter controller is a small closed system (safe), while a cellphone, connected to the internet, may not be.
Second, the controller is the brain of the system – it does all the math, calculations, user interface, etc., leaving the EAS unit to care only about its main tasks of height signals adjustments. This split design is intentional – the XL EAS unit needs to 100% reliable as it sits in the critical vehicle system chain. There are few more reasons, but these are the main ones.
We do not plan to change this, as we believe that extreme EAS unit stability is a must and competitive advantage.

Where can I find more help, support, news, or inspiration?

Of course, you can contact us at but there are better ways: There is an active page with all the news.
There is also an active Facebook user support group here: containing many articles with community members willing to step in and help. Please note that membership is pre-approval basis for the owners only, but occasionally we let people in if we see serious interest.

Where can I find Installation and User manual?

Direct download link is:, but it is always worth checking your firmware too. Visit our Firmware page, and if needed update your firmware right away.



Do I need to go to the workshop or can I install XLifter myself?

If you can handle a screwdriver, then you can do it. DIY install is perfectly possible, it’s not rocket science.
We took extra steps when designing the Xlifter to make it easy – the wireless connection between the controller and EAS unit is just one example. And there are only two screws to unscrew. The most difficult part of the installation is fitting the Xlifter cable loom in. The Land Rover EAS ECU you need to access is under a steering wheel with a bit of cumbersome access – it takes steady hands and flexible elbows 🙂 But don’t worry, hundreds of people did it already, just following the manual. 
And regarding the manual – we’ve made the installation video guide for you.
See it here on YouTube. It’s based on L3/Discovery3, but D4 and RRS are very similar.

How long does the installation take?

Installation should take about 30 minutes if you are familiar with the manual and have watched the video install guide.
Most people report time between 30minutes to one hour. But there is no need to rush. Take your time. Especially when fitting the cable loom – this is the critical step.
Please do not attempt to install the Xlifter without having watched the video and without the manual available next to you. Just slowly go step-by-step.
Allow some small additional time for calibration.

Do I need to make any changes to the vehicle?

There are absolutely no changes to the vehicle itself. No drilling, cutting wires, or soldering. And XLifter can be easily removed if necessary.

Do I need to calibrate the XLifter after installation?

Yes, the XLifter must be calibrated before the first use. 
The XLifter measures and remembers the position of the vehicle (zero pitch/roll) which is used as a reference for self-leveling. XLifter also measures and remembers the “standard” wheel heights, which is important for calculating safety limits, shock info absorbers graphics, etc. There is no harm when you run the calibration repeatedly and even there are cases when recalibration is mandatory. And remember – always calibrate with “original” LR height set to  “standard”!

I've started installing the cable loom. The black connector (B out) does not fit into the LR EAS unit. Did I received wrong cable loom?

Good news: the cable loom is right. There is only one type of cable loom.

The LR EAS unit has 4 connectors in total. The Xlifter cable loom uses the most left and most right connector. The most left connector is sometimes mistaken with the middle one (second from the right). If the color of the disconnected connector is grey and/or if you unplugged the original cable harness in a way that you see 2 empty connectors right next to each other – you have unplugged the wrong one.
XLifter loom’s B out connector will not fit in – it has a different key. Please check the connectors again. You need to unplug the most left one, the black one. Sometimes is hard to see the most left one, please look carefully.

I’ve installed the Xlifter, but only front wheels are raising/lowering. Rear does not move at all.

This one extremely rare, but very sneaky.
Usually, there is no EAS error(s) on the dashboard, all seems working well, the car can be raised and lowered by original buttons (Access, Standard, Off road height works well)…  and yet rear “axle” seems not affected by the Xlifter.

To confirm this issue, enter the service menu and turn on the debug and exit the service menu. If you have difficultly accessing the service menu, there is another FAQ question covering that. The debug screen will show zero values (voltages) on both rear wheels. 

This is interconnected to the “I’ve received wrong cable loom. The black connector (B out) does not fit into the LR EAS unit.“ FAQ question – please read it first.
What has probably happen is that the XLifter cable loom B out black connector was forcefully plugged into the middle slot on the LR EAS unit, instead of the most left one. Connectors have different keys and are impossible to fit in. Yet it is somehow possible to do so (with enough magic or force plastic key may bend I guess). 
The fix is easy – please watch the install video guide again, check the manual again. Then carefully unplug the wrongly inserted (B out) and (B in) connectors and connect everything the right way.
When done, calibrate the XLifter again – this is important. Xlifter probably has totally wrong calibration values for rear wheels from the previous calibration.
There is an article covering this in the XLifter user support group on FaceBook.

I’ve installed the XLifter but there are still suspension errors on the dashboard.

Immediately after Xlifter has been installed, all suspension-related errors must clear!
To clear them, the ignition must be turned off and on once (D3) or twice (D4, RRS, RR). To fully “cycle” the ignition in younger vehicles (with the engine start/stop button) may be necessary to lock the car with a wireless key after turning the engine off.
If any suspension error persists, there is a 99.9% chance that the problem is related to the cable loom. One of the connectors is probably not connected properly. With the properly connected cable loom, the vehicle MUST behave normally – as if no system is installed at all. The XLifter EAS unit, when set to +0mm disengaged, is “invisible” to the vehicle EAS system.

Here are steps to do to make sure, that the Xlifter cable loom is fitted properly:
1) check all the connectors is there are inserted fully in. Even a one-millimeter gap between connector and mating housing is sometimes enough to break the connection. Please see the install video guide around 3:00 time and check the manual – there is useful information!
2) Check all connectors for loose pins or wires falling out from the connectors. All wires must be fully in plastic connector housings including insulation. If you see any wire ending with metal contact out of the connector housing, it’s wrong.
3) Disconnect the XLifter EAS unit connector and plug in the bypass connector (mating orange plug attached by the rubber band to the cable loom).
The bypass plug simply routes the wheel’s height signals back to the car, thus removing the XL EAS unit out from the game. The bypass plug is there to test the cable loom.
4) Restart the vehicle (twice ideally). All errors must clear now and the car must behave normally. If it is all ok, go to step 6.
5) If you still have any error(s), undo the whole cable loom and check all connectors for any abnormalities, bent, or loose pins, etc. Correct, if possible, and install the cable loom again. Go to step 1. Sometimes simple loom re-fitting solves these problems. If nothing of the above helps, contact us please – the cable loom is probably faulty.
6) Unplug the bypass plug and connect the XLifter EAS unit. Wait about 10 seconds. Green LED at the EAS unit must be blinking now. Restart the vehicle (twice ideally). All errors must clear now and the car must behave normally. Xlifter controller must work normally. If not, check the cable loom pins at the XL EAS unit connector. If all seems right and you are still having troubles, contact us. There may be a problem with the XL EAS unit, but this is super rare. If all is ok and errors are successfully cleared, proceed with the Xlifter calibration, according to the manual.


XLifter troubleshooting

Car is not raising when height is changed (“suspension raising slowly” message may appear)

The height change just may be delayed, see the “… vehicle react after some delay…” question in Tips & Trick section.

Also, check the compressor temperature – it may be just overheated and the car is waiting until cooled down.
Check the question about the compressor overheating in the general questions section.

When you raise/lower the car extensively, usually 2 or 3 times in a row, the compressor’s head temperature easily exceeds 120 °Celsius. Vehicle EAS unit inhibits compressor operations until cooled down. “Suspension raising slowly” message may be displayed on the dashboard. Sometimes yellow suspension error occurs, accompanied by the usual gong sound.
Cooling takes 5-10 minutes.
This is the reason why we implemented the compressor temperature monitoring into the XLifter, so you know the compressor temperature. When the temperature gets to a high or critical range, let it cool down!

If none of the above is a cause, focus on the correct car type setting – it is covered by other questions in this FAQ. 

Xlifter does not raise nor lower the car. When I change "original" height, the XLifter suspension graphics shows the opposite wheel movement (some wheels "drop", others "climb"). What is wrong?

The vehicle type is not correct. Please set the correct one in the main menu -> settings -> calibration -> set vehicle type. For the firmware older than 1.00, change the vehicle type in the service menu –  see chapter 7 of the user manual.

Confirm the issue by checking for these symptoms:
Leave Xlifter on +0 mm disengaged and change the “original” ride heigh by buttons (D4, RR, RRS) or small lever (D3) of the centre console, the car will raise or lower and XLifter graphics shows opposite wheel movements.
Leave the car in the original “Standard” heigh and change the height by the XLifter. The car will not raise or lower. Vehicle 4×4 infotainment display will show opposite wheel movements. Suspension error may occur – if so, set XLifter back to +0mm and cycle the ignition.

Correct behaviour is that all wheels on any display move in the same direction.

Please pay special attention if your vehicle is late Discovery 3 – 2007 or 2008. These may need to be set as D3 2004-2007 car type.

The vehicle tilts to the side when height is changed by the XLifter.

The vehicle type is not correct. Please set the correct one in the main menu -> settings -> calibration -> set vehicle type. For the firmwares older than 1.00, change the vehicle type in the  service menu –  see chapter 7 of the user manual.

What is the maximum angle for self-levelling? Why do I get the “Extended mode” sometime?

The maximum level-able tilt is approximately 4.5° in longitudinal (pitch) or traverse (roll) direction. Or in any direction, if the sum of inclines does not exceed 4.5°.
This is given by maximum available wheel articulations. If there is not enough wheel travel “clearance”, Xlifter will let you know – appropriate air spring graphics and pitch/roll indicator will be blinking.
If self-leveling is started when angles exceed 4.5°, the system will do its best, but it will never achieve full balance. Furthermore, as the wheels will be at the end of its travel, the LR EAS computer may get confused – it will interpret the situation as if the car got stuck. The “Extended mode” message may appear – advising you to lower the height when the obstacle is cleared. In that case, if the car is sufficiently leveled for sleeping, just turn off the engine. The next morning, exit the self-leveling function and start the engine. The car will de-level and all errors or extended mode will be cleared.
If you want to avoid this scenario completely, self-level the vehicle from smaller angles. Please read page 13 of the user manual, there are some more related tricks!

The self leveling levels the car in the wrong way. It tilts the vehicle even more instead making it even.

The cause is at 99.99% wrong LHD/RHD setting. The Xlifter EAS unit, which cointaint inclinometer sensor, is mounted in mirror-like orientation in the Left Hand / Right Hand Drive vehicles. What is front in LHD becomes rear in RHD and the left/right side is swapped too.  The LHD/RHD setting just swaps the inclinometer axes.  Set the correct orientation in the main menu -> settings -> calibration -> set vehicle type -> Steering side.. For the firmwares older the 1.00, change the vehicle type in the  service menu –  see chapter 7 of user manual. Run the calibration afterwards!

The levelling function shows a senseless or too high tilts angles.

The EAS unit has probably moved. Maybe it was detached from 3M fasteners. 
Another possibility is that the calibration values got corrupted.
Please check the Xlifter EAS unit physical attachment and the 3M fastener. When fixed, perform the calibration again.

One or more of the target wheel height indicators is missing in the shock absorber infographics. What happened?

The calibration values are wrong. Please calibrate XLifter again.

The control module reports a "NO EAS RESPONSE" error. What’s the remedy?

A: Wireless communication with the EAS unit is failing. There maybe quite a few reasons: 

  • Check the EAS unit installation and connectors. The green LED must blink. All cable loom connectors must be firmly connected. Loose connectors may be the cause. 
  • The control module is connected to a permanent power supply and the ignition is turned off.  Please power the control module only from an ignition-switched 12V source. .
  • Control module and EAS unit are not paired (perhaps replacement etc.). Pair the control with the EAS unit: Service menu -> Pair EAS unit, see chapter 7 of the user manual.

Tips & Tricks 

When I change suspension height by the XLifter, the vehicle react after some delay. Is this normal?

This is quite normal.
The Land Rover® air suspension system reacts with some delay. 10 to 30 seconds is all ok. This is even more noticeable when small height changes are requested – such as a 5 mm change in XLifter free mode. Even more, the standard system height tolerance is 10 mm – the vehicle will not initiate height change while height “floats” within the tolerance limit.
In addition, height changes are inhibited in certain conditions (hard acceleration/deceleration, cornering for example) to increase safety. The vehicle just waits when it is safe to adjust the height.

Please give the vehicle some time to adjust its height. You may also use the “kick trick” – “force” height change with the original buttons (lever), push the “up” button, and then immediately (after 2 or so seconds) down button. See chapter 5.3. of the user manual.

How do I enter the service menu (Xlifter control module)?
The Service menu is displayed if you hold down any of the control module buttons while the module powers up.

This means:
1) Unplug Control module 12V power plug
— or — (in case you have hardwired the control module power into vehicle 12V ignition-switched power rail)
If your vehicle is D3 or RRS with the start key, turn the ignition off.
If it’s D4 or RR(s) with the start/stop button, stop the engine and lock the car with your remote key (while still sitting inside).  The locking is necessary to turn off the cigarette lighter socket.
The control module goes off.

2) Now press and keep holding down any button on the Xlifter controller.
Plug the 12V power again into the socket
— or —
Switch the ignition on, or unlock the car with the remote key if in D4, RR(S), and press the engine start button.
XLifter control module will start and display “Service menu”. Release the button. The detailed description is in the user manual, chapter 7.1.

The control module keys are locked. How do I unlock them?

The Keylock is a safety measure. If you cannot unlock keys, it is working right 🙂
Deactivate the keylock in the service menu – chapter 7 of the user manual. Activate the service menu – the very first item is “Keylock: [ACTIVE!]”.
Use the up/down buttons to highlight the “Keylock” item (it will be by default) and press the > button. The text will change to “Keylock: [INACTIVE]”. Then press the < button to exit the service menu.


Where can I get the latest firmware?

Please visit the firmware update page. You’ll find the latest firmware including “what’s new”, feature changelog, firmware archive, user manuals, upgrade guides, including video one.


How do I upgrade the XLifter firmware?

Please see the update instructions in Chapter 8 of the XLifter user manual. Also, see the XLifter firmware upgrade video guide on youtube. The firmware can also be upgraded via the mobile app.
Or just go to the firmware update page. You’ll find all you need there. 

Can I get rid of the 12V plug? What about hard-wiring the controller power supply to the car?
Yes, you can. Perfectly possible. You can cut original power wires and connect them to a suitable ignition-switched 12V point (the backside of the cigarette plug usually works the best). However this involves dismounting some parts of the dashboard, so you should be an advanced user with sufficient electric skills. There is a nice article about this topic in the FaceBook XLifter user support group.
Or ask a local LR shop to do this for you. Most of the users just start with the 12V plug as it is and optionally hard-wire the power later on.