On this page we would like to offer and share all types of handy accessories that will improve your user experience with the XLifter unit.
We will be expanding on our selection with time, for now, please enjoy some 3D printing models for mounting brackets! Let us know, what you think.
We have looked for the most common places for the unit and below are listed 3D models for mounting brackets we thought were practical. The basic idea is to create free (kind of the open source) 3D models, so anyone can 3D print them.
Feel free to 3D print and test it. We would love to hear your feedback on these options, please share your experience or please suggest improvements by sending an email to [email protected] or post a comment on our Facebook!
Discovery 4 (LR4) “dashboard” bracket
Same as in Discovery 3, this location is one of the favorites for most – cozy space next to the steering wheel. Many XLifters are mounted here – just firmly squeezed in. The bracket carefully follows the dash curvature and is designed to “snap in”.
The small downwards pointing flaps hold the bottom, the top is held by the dash itself. Mind the RHD/LHD version – flaps are different!. The upper half part of the rectangular cut is for velcro or double-sided tape, but that is not really necessary – XLifter holds well by the dash – just push it into the place.
Printing: 3D print should be simple. The model needs to be side-oriented, with cable-cutouts facing up. Support is required. When printed, cut off two small supporting bridges. The suggested material is PETG.
Discovery 4 (LR4) “Key box” bracket
The “key box” placed next to the gear shift knob/stick is an excellent spot. Some people have the XLifter controller just there. The 12V plug is right next, making potential hard-wiring of the power wire easy. The bracket fills a whole “key box” around the edges, no small stuff falling beneath anymore. And there is a slot for 2 coins 😉
There are left and right versions of this bracket. The bracket “foot” height is about 2 centimeters, making the controller top surface align with the console (so the bracket is about 1 cm buried). The final result is a clean-looking and tidy install.
There are 2 options. You can do a base only – replace only the backside part of the controller’s case. Alternatively, you can also print the cover part and replace the whole controller case. In either variant, the bracket is designed to align the top plane of the controller with the rest of the vehicle console. Both look very nice, the final choice is up to you.
Printing: 3D print is simple. The base is a two parts model. Print main part upside down as in pictures. The model is designed to be printed without any support. When printed, remove the red supporting ring (small pliers will do) from the main part. Place the small part – blue at the picture – into the main one, is it a controller circuit board. The cover is one part model, print it upside down. PETG is the favorite material.
Installation: This is a “full backside” bracket, designed to replace the controller’s backside (base variant) or full case replacement (the base + cover variant). Unscrew 4 screws, remove the backside (or whole case), push the power plug through the bracket’s hole and screw the controller directly on the base part or insert the controller into the base+cover and screw it all together. Finally, it is optimal to have hard-wired 12V power cable under the console for the best result!
Discovery 4 (LR4) “Oval box” bracket
First-generation of D4’s – all of them have them. The almost ideal space for the Xlifter controller, just next to the terrain response knob, right? Xlifter fits there nicely holding by its corners, but would not be nice having a sleek bracket? This 3D model creates a beautiful enclosure while keeping the simplicity.
This “bracket” is the full controller box replacement. You need to open the original controller box (4 screws) and move the whole circuit board to the printed box. The new enclosure just fits into the oval box at the center console. No screws, no velcro. It just holds. And the power cable can be routed beneath down thru the console and hardwired eventually, making the installation flawless.
Printing: 3D print is simple, of course, printed upside-down – the top side facing printing plate. The excellent surface look can be achieved using the powder-coated Prusa printer plates. The suggested material is PETG.
Discovery 4 (LR4) Cigarette lighter socket plug
This is a “bracket” for after-facelift Discovery 4. Two cigarette lighter plugs are nicely located right next to original air suspension and terrain response controls, making it absolutely logical fitting place! The bracket is a full controller backside replacement with an integrated power plug. It will fix the controller in place, delivers the power, and eliminates ugly wiring at once.
Printing: This is a bit more advanced print – It is crucial to set the layer step to 0.1 mm for the thread area. Print upside down, as in pictures. There are two model parts, the small spacer needs to be inserted into the big one. The red support ring must be removed (any small plyers will do). There are 2 versions of XLifter cigarette plugs – 16 and 17mm thread – measure yours and select the appropriate model. PETG is the favorite material.
Installation: As this is a full backside replacement including power, you need to take a few additional steps. The procedure is the same as for the “Discovery 3 Cigarette lighter socket plug”, please check it there. You need to disconnect the power cable, push it true a printed bracket, and screw it all together. The power cable should fold inside the connector, no shortening/resoldering should be necessary.
Discovery 3 (LR3) “dashboard” bracket
This location is probably the favorite for most of the users – cozy space next to the steering wheel. We saw many XLifters mounted there – just held in place by Velcro – not ideal, little wobbly at least. The bracket carefully follows the dash curvature and should just snap in into the place.
The bracket is designed to “snap in”. The small downwards pointing “wings” hold the bottom, while the top is held by the dash itself. Mind the RHD/LHD version – wings are different!. The rectangular cut is for velcro or double-sided tape. Alternatively, you can screw the 4 XLifter controller screws thru the bracket.
Printing: 3D print should be simple for this one too. The model needs to be side-oriented. Place the thicker wing side to the printing bed. Supports are not required. When printed, cut off the small supporting bridge. The suggested material is PETG.
Discovery 3 (LR3) “hand brake” bracket
This piece in the mounting brackets series is a simple frame fitted next to the D3 handbrake handle. It is a very simple design – easy to print, easy to install.
The bracket just goes on top of the original enclosure. The two rectangular cuts in the middle are for double-sided tape or velcro, which will hold all in place nicely. A small drop of glue is an alternative – feel free to experiment. And if you hard-wire the power below the central console, you’ll get a nice clean install.
Printing: 3D print is simple, with no catches or difficulties. Any 3D printer should print this. The suggested material is PETG; PLA may not withstand summer temperatures.
Discovery 3 (LR3) Cigarette lighter socket plug
This is a whole Xlifter controller case back side replacement, with an integrated power plug. The beauty of this bulky-looking thing is that it solves 3 problems at once – holds the controller in place, delivers the power, and eliminates ugly wiring.
Printing: It is crucial to set the layer step to 0.1 mm for the thread area. It is not necessary for a whole print, the thread area is just fine. If your slicer does not supports variable layers height, print the whole thing in 0.1 mm. Print without support is possible and preferred. There are two model parts, the small spacer needs to be inserted into the big one. Finally, there are 2 versions of XLifter cigarette plugs – 16 and 17mm thread – measure yours and select the appropriate model. PETG is the favorite material.
Installation: When printed, there are few more steps:
- Remove the controller backside (undo 4 screws).
- Disconnect the power cable. You will need small pliers and a pen. Push the connector pin and simultaneously pull out the wire. Keep toggling between wires, pull each one a few millimeters, until disconnected.
- Maneuver the cable out from the controller circuit board.
- Unscrew the top of the original 12V plug, remove the round plastic sleeve from the cable. Just keep the top pin (+ pole) and metal contact (- pole).
- Pull the disconnected end of the cable via the printed backside. Place the metal contact inside the “neck” part, and screw on the top pin (+ pole).
- Fold the cable into the backside connector cavity. Screw it all together with 4 screws from step 1.